Trolltunga (literally Troll’s Tongue) is one of Norway’s most famous hikes. The trail is best-known for the rock that juts out of the mountains and looks like the actual tongue of the mythical creature. But it’s not just this epic photo spot that is worthwhile. The whole trail is. You’ll find yourself wandering through incredibly scenic landscapes. Strap on your hiking boots for a wonderful, yet really strenuous hike through the Scandinavian mountains!
The Trolltunga hike
Depending on where you park your car, the hike can be longer or shorter. If you park in Skjeggedal (P2) the hike is 28 kilometres long and you have to ascent 800 metres. To me, the better option is to at Mågelitopp (P3). The hike from there is only 20 kilometres long and you only have to cover 320 metres of altitude.
If you choose to park at Skjeggedal, you will need 8 to 12 hours to finish the hike. From Mågelitopp you’ll have to count in 7 to 10 hours. You can only hike Trolltunga without a guide between 1 June and 30 September. From 1 October to 31 May a guide is mandatory. Do check the weather before you go, even at the height of summer.
Before hiking Trolltunga
Trolltunga is a long hike through mountainous terrain and is described as ‘very difficult’. When I read this, I got a bit anxious about being able to successfully complete this hike. This feeling only got worse once we finished our hikes on Norway’s Lofoten Islands. They were labelled ‘medium’ or ‘moderate’ hikes, were way shorter than the Trolltunga hike and in my experience they were already very hard. How was I ever going to hike Trolltunga then?
While Trolltunga definitely is a difficult hike with some really challenging climbs, it wasn’t as hard as I imagined it would be. If anything, the hikes on the Lofoten Islands should be labelled as more difficult hikes than is the case now. In addition, I feel that some online sources exaggerate how strenuous Trolltunga really is.
If you want to complete the Trolltunga hike successfully, preparation is key. If you’re not in decent condition just yet, you can train before your trip. The hike is relatively long, but the real difficulty lies in the mountainous terrain. Apart from being in shape, it’s really important to bring the right gear. Good hiking shoes are necessary, just like bringing lots of layers. The weather can change rapidly, so bring clothes for every condition possible. And last but not least: make sure you bring plenty of food and drinks to last the day.
A good website for accurate information on how to prepare for the Trolltunga hike is Visit Norway.
Get to the start of Trolltunga
We started the hike at the highest located parking lot: Mågelitopp (P3). From here, the trail is 20 kilometres long. The road you have to drive to get to this parking lot is quite challenging. It’s steep and has a lot of hairpin bends, but nevertheless I highly recommend starting your hike from Mågelitopp.
Parking on a lower lying parking lot does not only add extra kilometres to your hike, you’ll also have to climb significantly more vertical metres. In addition, the extra part you have to face, seems to be quite a dull looking road. Meanwhile, when you park at Mågelitopp, you’ll find yourself almost immediately surrounded by stunning landscapes. Do take into account that you need to book your spot at the Mågelitopp parking lot in advance and that there are only about 30 spots. Parking here will cost you 600 NOK for a day, but it’s totally worth it.
The Trolltunga hike itself
As the total Trolltunga hike (including the queuing at the actual Troll’s Tongue) can easily take up 10 hours or more, it’s really important to get an early start. We parked our car as early as 6:30 in the morning.
On the Trolltunga hike you don’t need to walk upwards all the time. Parts where you need to climb are alternated with flatter areas and sometimes you even need to go down for a little bit before reaching Trolltunga. The toughest climbs are situated more at the beginning of the trail. At one point I was totally convinced I wouldn’t make it all the way there, but someone on his way back cheered me on and claimed that part was the hardest. I didn’t really believe him then, but it turned out he was totally right.
Most of the time you’re not hiking very close to the edge. Most of the trail is, however, uneven and covered in rocks. So it’s best to always watch your step. Be careful on the steeper parts, whichever way you are going. The rocks also get slippery when wet (I once again learned that the hard way).
Finding the path towards Trolltunga is easy. You can see red T’s painted on rocks along the way … or you can simply follow other hikers. In high season, you certainly won’t be alone. On the way back you follow the same trail.
The sights along the Trolltunga trail are absolutely great. You’ll see snow-capped mountains and glaciers in the distance behind you, while hiking through an oftentimes lunar-looking landscape. You’ll pass small creeks and lakes and impressive fields of granite rocks. Taking a break every now and then is really rewarding: not only to catch your breath for a while, but also to enjoy the views. If you started early enough, you really don’t have to rush.
At the Troll’s Tongue
After 10 kilometres (if you parked at Mågelitopp that is) you reach the epic viewpoint: Trolltunga. To take a picture on the rock, you’ll have to wait in line. I was in a party of four, so we split up. Each duo had to wait about an hour to get on the rock itself, so it took us quite some time to get the pictures. Be prepared to wait and stand or sit still for a long time. Take some warm clothing with you, as it can get really chilly up here and you won’t be moving very much.
To get on the rock itself you’ll have to climb down a small ladder and then there’s another short queue left. When I was there everyone was patiently waiting for their turn to get on the rock (although me and my friend were getting quite nervous after a while, as we saw rain clouds approaching). I found the Troll’s Tongue to be wider than it looks in pictures. The stone is also tilting slightly upwards, which makes it less scary to stand on it. Just don’t go to close to the edges and take the weather conditions into account (we were lucky we made it on there just before it started to rain).
Be careful when you’re going back after posing on the Troll’s Tongue, as you’ll have to pass the waiting queue and the area is quite narrow. And pay attention when you’re taking pictures of someone else. I found most people were calmly and safely waiting in line to get on Trolltunga, but were way less so when looking for a spot to take the pictures from. Here too you should watch your steps and stay far enough from the edge. There’s plenty of safe places to take great pictures from! Extra tip: if you walk just a little bit higher than Trolltunga itself, there’s another great, yet quiet, photo spot with a great view of Lake Ringedalsvatnet.
Where to stay
It’s best to stay in close proximity to the start of Trolltunga both the night before and the night after you do this hike. As such you won’t have to rise in the dead of night to reach the start and you won’t have to relocate and drive long after you completed this exhausting hike.
We stayed in a lovely Airbnb in Odda. Odda is a great base to hike Trolltunga from, as it’s only about a 20 minutes’ drive (25 kilometres) to the start of the hike. In the town centre you’ll find supermarkets to stock up on food and drinks beforehand and several dining options, to fuel up again after the hike.
Want to know more about hiking in Norway? Read about my experience with the Djevelporten, Festvågtind and Ryten hikes on the Lofoten Islands.
Craving more Scandinavian adventure? Consider kayaking on the Hardangerfjord, one of my favourite experiences ever.
Fancy a road trip through Norway? Discover the 12-day itinerary around the country’s highlights I did.
Looking for a city break in this Nordic land? Check out my lists of higlights in Oslo and things to see and do in Bergen.
Pingback: Hiking on Norway’s Lofoten Islands: the Djevelporten, Festvågtind and Ryten hikes - Cities and Seasides
Pingback: A 12-day itinerary around Norway’s highlights - Cities and Seasides
Comments are closed.