A 12-day itinerary around Norway’s highlights

Norway looks like it was sculpted to take your breath away. The natural scenery is the Nordic country’s biggest drawing card, but the cities deserve your attention too. In just twelve days you can see some of Norway’s most spectacular highlights on a road trip.

While you can’t see everything Norway has to offer in just twelve days, you can discover quite a lot if you plan it well. The road trip I went on, focused on two big regions: the Lofoten Islands and the Southwestern fjords. Additionally, I visited Norway’s capital Oslo at the end of the trip.

For some people, this Norway itinerary will be too fast-paced. But in my experience it was perfectly doable and it didn’t feel too rushed. If you don’t have endless travel time at your disposal and don’t mind switching bases, this road trip is perfect to get a good feel of beautiful Norway.

The Norway itinerary in a nutshell

Part 1: Lofoten Islands

• Day 1: Travel to Norway
• Day 2: Hike to Trolldalsvatnet and visit Reine
• Day 3: Hike to Djevelsporten and/or Festvågtind
• Day 4: Hike to Ryten (Kvalvika Beach) and sleep in a Rorbu

Part 2: Southwestern fjords + Oslo

• Day 5: Travel to Bergen
• Day 6: Visit Bergen
• Day 7: Kayak the Hardangerfjord
• Day 8: Hike Trolltunga
• Day 9: Chase waterfalls and visit Stavanger
• Day 10: Hike Pulpit Rock
• Day 11: Visit Oslo
• Day 12: Go home

Part 1: Lofoten Islands

The first leg of this 12-day Norway itinerary takes you to the otherworldly Lofoten Islands. This remote archipelago above the Arctic Circle looks as if it comes straight out of a J.R.R. Tolkien fantasy landscape. The Lofoten are chockfull of natural wonder, with cute and bright fishermen’s cabins sprinkled amidst the craggy mountaintops.

These magical islands aren’t on everyone’s radar just yet. But they are gaining popularity and fame fast, so you might want to visit sooner rather than later. We spent three days of our 12-day Norway trip on the southernmost Lofoten Islands.

Day 1: Travel to Norway

Our first day solely consisted of travelling to Norway. We first flew from Brussels to Oslo, where we arrived in the late afternoon. That evening we took a domestic flight to Bodø, where we spent the first night. Depending on your flight times and where you’re coming from, you can already travel all the way to the Lofoten Islands on this first day (and as such maximizing your time on these great islands) or you might want to stay the first night in Oslo instead of Bodø.

How to get to the Lofoten Islands?

As I already mentioned, the Lofoten Islands are quite remote. As a result, getting there is quite the journey. Bodø is a good base to reach the Lofoten from. You can take a domestic flight here from Oslo.

Rent a car in Bodø, you absolutely need one to get around these islands. Then take the ferry from Bodø to Moskenes, on the Lofoten. The crossing takes about 3 hours and 15 minutes. Tickets can be bought through this website.

Day 1 summarized:

• Fly to Oslo
• Fly from Oslo to Bodø (1 hour 30 minutes)
• Rent a car in Bodø
• Take the ferry from Bodø to Moskenes (3 hours 15 minutes)
• Alternative: sleep in Bodø. Pick up your rental car and take the ferry early on day 2

Day 2: Hike to Trolldalsvatnet and visit Reine

Early in the morning we picked up our rental car and boarded the ferry to the Lofoten Islads. When we disembarked we were already in complete awe, because of the spectacular views of the islands when the boat enters the harbour. Make sure to get out on the deck when you’re almost there!

On your first day on the Lofoten you can take it quite easy, like we did. We started with an easy hike in Sørvågen, not too far from the ferry harbour. The hike to Trolldaslvatnet (a lake) is fairly easy and a bit longer than 4 kilometres.

This hike feels like a warm-up compared to other hikes on the Lofoten. Still, we didn’t make it all the way to Trolldalsvatnet, because we lost track of the right path, that is not always clearly indicated. We did make it to the pretty Stuvdalsvatnet and saw a lovely waterfall, so even if you do not complete the hike, the surroundings are still very much worth it! Just make sure you can still find your way back to the parking lot.

After the hike, drive the E10 (the only big road on the Lofoten) up to Reine. This is one of the most picturesque towns on the islands and you simply cannot miss it. The views of the bright red fishermen’s cabins surrounded by the dramatic, rugged landscape seem to be out of this world.

The biggest part of your drive today still awaits, as you have to make it up to Svolvær. The total drive from Moskenes to Svolvær is 125 kilometres, which you can easily combine with the activities listed here. One of the perks of travelling on the Lofoten from June up to the middle of July is that the sun doesn’t completely set. So you don’t have to worry about having to drive in the dark!

When driving from Reine to Svolvær you can make some photogenic stops along the way. We stopped at Skagsanden Beach and a viewpoint that drew our attention. The Lofoten offer scenic and spectacular views around every corner. Just stop when you see something that appeals to you!

Day 2 summarized:

• If you haven’t done so on day 1: rent a car in Bodø and take the ferry to Moskenes
• Drive from Moskenes to Svolvær (125 kilometres)
• Hike Trolldalsvatnet (4,34 kilometres; approximately 2 hours)
• Visit Reine
• Sleep in Svolvær

Day 3: Hike to Djevelporten and/or Festvågtind

On our first full day on the Lofoten we really wanted to make the most of it. We had planned both the Djevelporten and Festvågtind hike on this day, but to be honest this was quite ambitious. It is definitely possibly if you are in good shape and if you get an early start. But I’d recommend to do just one of these hikes. The rest of the day can definitely be filled with exploring the lovely towns and lower-located natural beauty of the islands.

The hike to Djevelporten (devil’s gate) starts in Svolvær itself. As you have just spent the night in this ‘city’, you won’t have to drive far to the start of the hike. Djevelporten is sometimes labelled online as a ‘medium’ or ‘moderate’ hike, but as the path is really steep at times and you need both your hands and feet to get upwards, I’d rather say it is a difficult hike. The climb is about 4 kilometres long and gives you beautiful views over Svolvær and surroundings. It should take you 3 to 4 hours to finish it.

The hike to Festvågtind has a lot of things in common with the one to Djevelporten. This one too is often named a ‘moderate’ hike. Yet it was more difficult than a moderate hike in my book. And just like with the first hike, we needed all our limbs to scramble over the big boulders (which was challenging but fun!). Because it was already early in the evening and the top was covered in clouds, we decided not to go all the way up. We did make a little detour on our way back, by going to the other side of the lake we passed.

The start of the Festvågtind climb is located near Henningsvær, about 23 kilometres from Svolvær. The hike is about 3 kilometres and takes 2 to 3 hours to complete. Even if you don’t make it to the top, you get great views over Henningsvær and the small dots of land surrounding it. 

Read more about hiking Djevelporten and Festvågtind on the Lofoten Islands.

Day 3 summarized:

• Hike Djevelporten (4 kilometres; 3 to 4 hours)
• Hike Festvågtind (3 kilometres; 2 to 3 hours)
• Sleep in Svolvær

Day 4: Hike to Ryten (Kvalvika Beach) and sleep in a Rorbu

On our last day on the Lofoten we combined our trip back towards the port with some fun ‘beach’ activities. We left Svolvær and made a stop at the lovely Ramberg Beach.

Just 9 kilometres from this beach is the start of the Ryten hike. This path takes you up a mountain from where you have a great view on the wonderful Kvalvika Beach. The trail is 8,7 kilometres long and takes 3 to 5 hours to complete. If you feel up to it and aren’t tired of hiking up and down just yet, you can also hike down towards the beach itself before going all the way up.

If you only do one hike on the Lofoten, make it Ryten. The views were superb and my personal favourites. Unlike the Djevelporten and Festvågtind hikes, you won’t need your arms to climb here and the path is clearly indicated. As such, this hike is more accessible. At the top of Ryten is a great photo spot, with rocks that jut out a little. The closest part of the rocks hangs just above the ground. Be careful though, as the cliff edge is really close and the ground below slopes down.

Read more about hiking Ryten on the Lofoten Islands.

After Ryten we drove up to Sørvågen to stay the night in a rorbu, a traditional fishermen’s cabin.  These houses can be found all over the Lofoten and many of them are now transformed into tourist lodgings. It’s not the cheapest accommodation you can find, but as these houses are so charming and quintessential to the Lofoten, I believe you should definitely stay in one when you’re on these islands. It’s a lovely experience in itself!

Day 4 summarized:

• Hike Ryten (8,7 kilometres; 3 to 5 hours)
• Drive from Svolvær to a town close to the port where you can stay the night (approximately 125 kilometres)
• Stay the night in a rorbu close to Moskenes’ port

Part 2: Southwestern fjords and Oslo

The second leg of this 12-day Norway itinerary takes you to the Southwest of the Scandinavian country, where the world-renowned fjords draw the most attention. Apart from mesmerizing natural beauty, you’ll find some lovely cities on your way here.

From the Lofoten Islands we flew into beautiful Bergen, where we rented another car. We drove up to stunning Stavanger, discovering the fabulous fjord landscapes from all possible angles in-between. Lastly, wrap your road trip through Norway up in Oslo, the modern and vibrant capital city.

Day 5: Travel to Bergen

The fourth day of this 12-day Norway itinerary is mostly a travel day. Catch an early ferry in Moskenes and wave the gorgeous Lofoten Islands goodbye. When you arrive back on the mainland, you can catch a flight from Bodø to Bergen. We arrived late in the afternoon and had some time left to get a first impression of Norway’s second biggest city.

Day 5 summarized:

• Take the ferry from Moskenes (Lofoten Islands) to Bodø (approximately 3 hours and 15 minutes)
• Fly from Bodø to Bergen (approximately 1 hour and 35 minutes)
• Sleep in Bergen

Day 6: Visit Bergen

After indulging the lush landscapes of the Lofoten Islands, it’s time to discover some more of Norway’s cultural side. And what better place to do so than former capital city Bergen?

When you visit Bergen you cannot miss the Bryggen area. This Unesco World Heritage Site consists of picturesque wooden houses dating back to the city’s prime during the Middle Ages.

Another highlight of Bergen is taking the Fløibanen funicular up Mount Fløyen. As Bergen is surrounded by seven hills and seven fjords, the views over the city from above are truly spectacular and quintessential Scandinavian. This is especially true if you happen to find one of the most rainy cities in the world on a sunny day, like we did. The queue for the funicular can get quite long, but if you buy your tickets in advance, you can get in a line that moves significantly faster.

Want to discover more? I made a list of things to see and do on one day in Bergen.

After your visit to Bergen, drive up to the area around the Hardangerfjord. If you want, you can already go to Odda and spend an extra night here. We spent this night in Lofthus.

Day 6 summarized:

• Discover Bergen
• Drive up to the Hardangerfjord area (depending on where you stay the night 160 to 190 kilometres)
• Stay the night in the area around the Hardangerfjord (e.g. Lofthus) or Odda

Day 7: Kayak the Hardangerfjord

Today is all about seeing Norway’s nature from a different angle. Leave those hiking boots in your luggage and prepare your arm muscles for some heavy work, as you will be kayaking the magnificent Hardangerfjord today.

The three hour kayak trip we took with Best Adventures was one of my favourite activities during our Norway trip. Together with a guide and a small group of other travellers you venture out on the innermost part of the Hardangerfjord, which is the second deepest and longest in the country.

Don’t worry if you have no kayak experience whatsoever. Before departure your guide teaches you the basics and even tests them briefly. The kayaking is quite a work-out (you are paddling through a vast body of water, after all), but in my opinion doable for everyone who’s in decent condition. The organisation even allows children from the age of 10 to participate. As the fjord is connected to the sea do be aware that depending on weather conditions, there can be waves.

All equipment, including a life jacket, is provided. Although, you best pack some extra shoes that can get wet and that you won’t need in the next days. We forgot and I can testify that it’s really hard not to lose your flip-flops when pushing your kayak in and out of the water. We were lucky the weather was really sunny during our kayak trip, but as the Norwegian weather can turn for the worse quickly, I advise you to also bring a rain jacket.

Make sure not to miss this adventure! To me it was a welcome change from all the uphill hiking we had done already. It also adds a different perspective to Norway’s fjords and mountainous landscape. They’re wonderful to look at from above, but kayaking on a fjord truly shows how big they actually are.

Read more about my experience kayaking the Hardangerfjord.

After kayaking about 8 kilometres, we took the rest of the day slow and enjoyed the surrounding views. From Eidfjord we drove up to Odda, where we spent the next two nights.

Day 7 summarized:

• Kayak the Hardangerfjord (the tour starts in Eidfjord)
• Drive up to Odda (127 kilometres)
• Sleep in Odda

Day 8: Hike Trolltunga

Today is a big day, as one of Norway’s most famous hikes is on the programme! The Trolltunga (literally Troll’s Tongue) hike takes you through the Scandinavian mountains to the well-known rock that juts out of the landscape like the actual tongue of this mythical creature. Many people come here just to take epic pictures on the tongue, overlooking the Ringedalsvatnet lake. But the whole hike offers stunning views and landscapes that make you feel like you wound up on another planet.

But be prepared: the Trolltunga hike is no picnic! If you start at the top parking of Mågelitopp (which I highly recommend) the mountain hike is 20 kilometres long. Make sure to get an early start, as the total hike can easily take up 10 hours or more. When you arrive at the Troll’s Tongue itself you probably will have to wait in line to take a picture on it.

While this is a challenging hike, it is definitely doable if you come well-prepared, are healthy and in decent shape. Be careful at all times, wear decent hiking shoes, bring lots of layers that protect you from wind and water and take plenty of food and water with you. You can only hike Trolltunga without a guide between 1 June and 30 September. At other times a guide is mandatory. You can read all the safety recommendations on the website of Visit Norway.

Read more about hiking Trolltunga.

Day 8 summarized:

• Hike Trolltunga (20 kilometres from the highest parking lot; about 10 hours)
• Sleep in Odda

Day 9: Chase waterfalls and discover Stavanger

Today you drive from Odda to another Norwegian city: Stavanger. On your way there you can spot some lovely waterfalls. The first one is Latefossen, a double waterfall. The second one is Langfoss, one of the highest waterfalls in the country. Either of them are located right next to the road and the parking lots make for very scenic on-the-road breakfast locations.

To get to Stavanger, you need to take the ferry from Arsvågen to Mortvika. In high season there’s a ferry every hour and you can buy your ticket on the spot. The crossing takes a bit more than 20 minutes normally. When we arrived in Stavanger we dropped off our luggage at our hotel and then brought back our rental car, as we wouldn’t be needing it anymore.

If you left Odda early enough, you’ll have some time to discover the compact, yet beautiful centre of Stavanger. Make sure not to miss Gamle Stavanger, the old town lined with picturesque white wooden houses.

Day 9 summarized:

• Drive up to Stavanger (194 kilometres + ferry)
• Discover Stavanger
• Sleep in Stavanger

Day 10: Hike Pulpit Rock

The last hike of this Norway itinerary is the one to Pulpit Rock (Preikestolen in Norwegian). To get to the start of the hike, you can take the ferry in Stavanger. We made sure our accommodation was not too far from the harbour so we could easily go there by foot. After that you can take a bus that drops you off at the start of the hike. You can buy your tickets for the ferry at the moment itself. The bus ticket can be purchased in advance.

The hike to the rock that towers over the magnificent Lysefjord is 8 kilometres long and takes about 4 hours. The trail is steep at times, but in my opinion this was one of the easier hikes we did on our 12-day Norway trip.

I loved the varying scenery we passed on this hike. The views over the Lysefjord are absolutely marvellous, but because there was so much wind when we went, we couldn’t really enjoy it to the fullest. If it weren’t for the weather Pulpit Rock probably would have been my favourite hike from the trip.

Make sure to start your hike early, as afterwards you need to get back to Stavanger and take a flight to Oslo. In summer you can also take the night train between these two cities on some days.

Day 10 summarized:

• Hike Pulpit Rock (8 kilometres, about 4 hours)
• Fly from Stavanger to Oslo (approximately 50 minutes)
• Sleep in Oslo

Day 11: Visit Oslo

The capital city has a lot to offer and is the perfect final chord to this 12-day itinerary around Norway’s highlights. Having at least a full day here allows you to see the most beautiful parts of the city.

Oslo is quite compact and most must-see sights are at walking distance from one another. Make sure to go to the roof of the modern Opera House and plan a visit to the Vigeland Sculpture Park.  

But there’s more! Read my list of highlights in Oslo’s city centre.

We spent another night in the city, so we had a full day here. If you have the possibility to do this, it is definitely a good idea to add this to your Norway itinerary.

Day 11 summarized:

• Discover Oslo
• Sleep in Oslo (or fly home)

Day 12: Go home

This last day is again mostly a travel day. As our flight was only in the early evening, we could spend some extra time in Oslo. This was great, as the day before it had been raining quite a lot and this extra time allowed us to see parts of the city in sunlight.

You can easily reach Oslo Gardermoen Airport by train from the city centre. There’s a train leaving every 10 or 20 minutes and the ride takes about 20 minutes.

Day 12 summarized:

• Go home

Of course this spectacular country has many more regions, cities, hikes … that are worth visiting. But this Norway itinerary offers a great variety of all the highlights the country has to offer. And who knows, you might go back one day to discover even more!

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