Germany’s Black Forest allegedly formed the inspiration for the Grimm brothers’ fairytales. It’s not hard to see why when hiking through the lush green forests on rolling hills, filled with cascading waterfalls and idyllic streams. But the region has more to offer than beautiful woods. You’ll find a variety of fun activities here to keep you busy all week long!
To be honest, the Black Forest wasn’t on my travel radar before coronavirus. Normally, I would visit Indonesia during the summer of 2020, but of course that plan fell through. When looking for an alternative destination that we could reach by car, my friend suggested the Black Forest. We put together a varying itinerary and had a really fun week in this part of Germany! If you’re looking for a European destination that offers a mix of activities, the Black Forest will be your cup of tea.
The Black Forest itinerary in a nutshell
- Day 1: Toboganning in Todtnau, Fahler waterfalls and Titisee
- Day 2: Hiking the Feldberg mountain
- Day 3: Ravenna Gorge and Glottertal
- Day 4: Triberg waterfalls and Park mit allen Sinnen
- Day 5: Glottertal and Mundenhof
- Day 6: Freiburg
- Day 7: Europapark/Rulantica
Pay attention that this itinerary does not include time to travel to and from the Black Forest. The itinerary described, takes up a full week. As we drove here by car from Belgium, we added a day for travelling at the beginning and end of our trip. This way, we had a complete week to fill with activities. The drive to the Black Forest from central Belgium takes about six hours. Getting around the Black Forest is easiest done by car. If you don’t drive here, you may want to rent a vehicle for your stay.
The Black Forest is a large region in the southwestern German state Baden-Württemberg. As such, a week is not enough to cover the entire area. During our road trip we focused on the highlights in the southern part of the Black Forest, but if you want to extend your journey here, you can add stops more up north. Spa lovers, for instance, may want to include a visit to wellness town Baden-Baden.
Day 1: Toboganning, waterfalls and Titisee
We arrived the day before at our first overnight location: Feldberg. This area is mostly known for its ski slopes. But the Feldberg mountain is also worth a visit in summertime (see day 2) and it’s the perfect base to explore more of the surroundings. We stayed in Feldberg for three nights, in the Burg Hotel.
If you are staying two nights or more in the High Black Forest, you receive a Hochschwarzwald Card. This card includes free entrance to several attractions in the area. We happily used it as we ventured out to some towns close to Feldberg.
Todtnau’s toboggan run
Our first activity of the day was located in Todtnau. We went to its Hasenhorn toboggan run, that goes down the side of the mountain of the same name. Both the chair lift up and the toboggan itself were included in our Hochschwarzwald Card, so we didn’t have to pay for this activity. If you don’t have the card you have to pay € 5 for the lift and € 4,50 for the run down. Alternatively to taking the lift, you can hike up the Hasenhorn mountain, to the start of the coaster.
Taking the chair lift up is an attraction in itself. From the lift you have great views on the mountainous landscape surrounding Todtnau. Before we could ride down, we had to wait in line for a while. This didn’t take too much time, luckily, but apparently the queue here can get quite long during a normal high season. When waiting to slide down the toboggan run, you once again have a breathtaking view on the lush hills.
The toboggan run is 2900 metres long and counts many hairpin turns. You can regulate the speed yourself. It’s a fun and thrilling ride and an exciting start for your Black Forest road trip!
Fahler waterfalls
Between Todtnau and Feldberg lie the Fahler waterfalls. In a bend of the road between the two villages, you’ll find an arrow pointing in their direction next to a small parking lot. From there it’s only a short hike to find the falls in the surrounding forest. They’re not the most spectacular falls you’ll see in the Black Forest, but as they’re on the road and you can easily reach them, they’re worth a short stop.
Titisee
One of the most popular spots in the Black Forest region is Titisee. This lakeside town is a bit overrun by tourists, but nevertheless a must on your itinerary. You could also stay in one of the many accommodations in this village, but this will probably be more expensive than locating in Feldberg.
Titisee is a fun town to stroll through and you’ll find plenty of stores and restaurants here. But the main draw is the lake the town is named after. With the Hochschwarzwald Card you can take a guided boat ride on it, which we did.
Afterwards we wanted to walk around the lake. Apparently, this used to be a nice hike with views on the Titisee, but nowadays many grounds bordering the lake are private. As such, a great deal of the hike is done on a big, paved road with no sight of the Titisee whatsoever. We turned around after a while and had a drink on a terrace by the shore. Much better! I would not recommend hiking around Titisee.
What I would recommend, however, is what we did next. We hired a pedalo boat, to explore the lake ourselves and relax in the sun while doing so. It was a great ending to the afternoon!
Day 2: Hiking the Feldberg mountain
You can’t stay in a hotel next to the Feldberg for three nights, without hiking the mountain itself. So, that’s exactly what we did on our second day. The Feldberg is the highest point in the Black Forest, and as such offers spectacular views from its summit. Unfortunately, it was quite cloudy when we visited, but the vistas were still striking.
We decided to take the cable car up the mountain, as this was included in our Hochschwarzwald Card. Then we first visited the Feldberg Tower, to have a look on the surroundings from even higher up. From there, you still have to hike a little bit to reach the actual mountain summit.
After taking in the incredible views at the top, we started our hike. We chose to do the Feldbergsteig. This is a tough hike of 12,5 kilometres, with 508 altitude metres. However, by taking the cable car up the mountain, we cut off some of the hike and a large steep part. Don’t be fooled though: just because you start at the summit, doesn’t mean you won’t have to walk uphill anymore. The hike takes you from the mountain to the valley, back up and down again.
The hike is lovely and varying: sometimes you’re walking in a fairytalelike forest the area is famous for, next you’re surrounded by pastures and mountain views. One of the loveliest spots on the hike is the Feldsee. If you still have the energy, you can extend your Feldbergsteig hike with a tour around the lake. Another great advantage of the Feldbergsteig is that you pass three huts along the way, where you can have a drink, eat something and have a bathroom break.
Hiking the Feldberg was lovely, but rather challenging. We therefore took the rest of the day easy and let our legs rest.
Day 3: Ravenna Gorge and Glottertal
Ravenna Gorge
If you only visit one spot in the Black Forest, make it the Ravenna Gorge. There are several hikes from different starting points going through the gorge. We took off in Hinterzarten, starting from the local train station where you can park your car. Our hike was about 8,8 kilometres long and intermediate level, but there are longer hikes passing through the Ravenna Gorge starting in Hinterzarten as well.
The first part of the hike takes you past some historic mills laying in the woods. Unfortunately, this part of the tour lies close to a busy road. It’s definitely the least pleasant and interesting part of the walk. Shortly before the best part comes, you’ll pass Hofgut Sternen, a fancy hotel surrounded by several typical buildings, including one with a huge cuckoo clock on the front.
Once you see the Ravennaviadukt (or Ravenna Bridge) the real magic is about to start. Briefly after passing the bridge you enter the Ravenna Gorge itself. If it wasn’t clear up till now why the Grimm brothers found the inspiration for their fairytales in the Black Forest region, it will soon become obvious.
The Ravenna Gorge takes you through a beautiful forest, filled with babbling brooks and gorgeous waterfalls. Pictures can’t do it justice, but it’s absolutely marvellous and a must see when you’re visiting the Black Forest.
When you’re out of the gorge, there’s a house where you normally can have a drink. This is a great picknick spot. The hike continues past meadows and houses, taking you back to Hinterzarten, which is itself a sight to see.
Glottertal
After our wonderful hike through the Ravenna Gorge, we drove to our next base: Glottertal. This lovely village isn’t on most tourists’ radar. It’s a calm place where you can enjoy the Black Forest region away from the crowds.
As we were lucky with the weather, we decided to relax and soak in some sun at the local Panoramabad. This open-air pool offers a magnificent view on the mountains surrounding the valley Glottertal lies in. We discovered this picturesque village further on day 6.
The town counts some small family-run hotels, that are maybe a little kitschy, but also quintessential to the region. We stayed at the Wisser’s Sonnenhof for two nights, where we had a spacious room including a kitchenette and a balcony that had a view of the lovely vineyards.
Day 4: Triberg Waterfalls and Park mit allen Sinnen
Triberg Waterfalls
Despite being a tourist hot spot, the Triberg waterfalls are worth a visit. The water from the Gutach river makes a 163 metres drop here, divided over seven stages. You can spot the waterfalls from several platforms and bridges that cross the river on different levels. They’re a lovely sight!
You can park close to the waterfalls and they can be reached easily by foot from the town centre. To see the falls you have to pay €3,50 as an adult. If you want to, you can go for a walk in the surroundings of the waterfalls.
Triberg offers several places to eat and drink after you visit the falls. There are also plenty of opportunities to shop souvenirs in this touristic town.
Park mit allen Sinnen
After our relaxed visit to the Triberg Waterfalls, we stopped at the Park mit allen Sinnen (park with all senses). Here you can take a 2,1 kilometres long barefoot walk that triggers all your senses. The trail takes you over and through different soils. You’ll walk over a tree trunk, through mud and pinecones …
Along the path are several areas that appeal to your different senses. You’ll find aroma pavilions filled with different smells and at one point you’ll have to walk through a dark box, using nothing but your touch to get over the obstacles in it.
I had never done a barefoot walk before and I liked it. What would have made it even better was more variation in the things to walk over. There were slightly too many parts with tree bark and small stones, in my opinion. A tad more soft experiences would have made this walk even more fun.
Entrance to the Park mit allen Sinnen is € 6 for adults. You can use a locker to put your shoes and other belongings in. There’s a picknick field and foot wash area next to the start of the trail and the lockers.
Day 5: Glottertal and Mundenhof
Glottertal
Before leaving this gorgeous village for the city, we explored it more thoroughly. As it was blazing hot that day, we opted for a short hike around town.
The Glottertalentdeckerpfad is 6,5 kilometres long and makes a loop through this hidden gem in the Black Forest. The hike takes you to the centre of town, but also past vineyards and meadows. The view on the green hills filled with vineyards that encircle Glottertal are the greatest part of this simple hike.
Mundenhof
Next stop is the medieval university city of Freiburg. We stayed for three nights at the Super 8 Freiburg Hotel. It’s about 30 minutes (by tram or by foot) from the city centre, but staying a little outside of the centre was more convenient as we were travelling by car and would still need it in the next days.
On our first half day in Freiburg, we visited the Mundenhof. It’s a relatively small, but nice animal park. Entrance to the park is free, but parking costs 5 euros. The money is used to sustain the Mundenhof and its animals. You can order a parking ticket online. Going there by car is definitely the easiest option, but you can also reach the park by public transport. The bus goes there three times a day. You can also take a tram, but then you’ll have to walk for 20 – 30 minutes to reach the park.
We ended our day with dinner and a drink in the city centre. A sneak peek of what comes tomorrow!
Day 6: Freiburg
Today we explored the bustling city centre of Freiburg. While the Black Forest is best-known for its natural beauty, Freiburg definitely warrants a visit. It also adds some variety to your itinerary. Despite being a city, Freiburg also breathes the atmosphere that is so typical for this region. The fact that it is rather small adds to its charm. And it makes it possible to see the whole city centre in one day by foot.
Want to know what there is to discover in the city? I made a list of 12 things to see and do in Freiburg!
Day 7: Europapark/Rulantica
The last day of this Black Forest itinerary is one to let out your inner child. Freiburg is only a 30-minute drive away from amusement park Europapark and its adjacent waterpark Rulantica. You can also stay overnight in the park itself, but this will probably cost you more than sleeping in Freiburg.
I think it’s possible to visit both parks in one day, if you for instance go to Rulantica in the evening. But if you want to go to both and you have an extra day to spare, that would probably be the best option. We only visited the new waterpark Rulantica, as I’m more into waterslides than rollercoasters, and we had so much fun! It was a great ending to our Black Forest vacation.
We slept in Freiburg for another night and drove home the day after. We normally would’ve added some extra days in France’s Alsace region to our holiday, but due to increasing corona cases and an updated advice from the Belgian government, we just drove through it without stopping. But if you have some vacation time left, you can extend this itinerary with a visit to France as well as exploring even more of the Black Forest.
