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Cinque Terre Riomaggiore

Cinque Terre: A guide to Italy’s fabulous five

In the last couple of years Cinque Terre has risen to fame and claimed a spot on virtually everyone’s Italy bucket list. And for good reason! The colourful houses of the five famous villages stand out beautifully against the green hills they were built upon. While most tourists visit on a day trip, the best way to discover the UNESCO world heritage site is during an overnight stay. Cinque Terre has plenty on offer to keep you busy for days.

Cinque Terre consists of five villages, that all have their own unique charm. If you’re coming in from La Spezia, like most tourists, you’ll pass them in this order: Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, Monterosso al Mare.

Cinque Terre Manarola

Riomaggiore

Cinque Terre Riomaggiore

We chose Riomaggiore as our base in Cinque Terre. This might be the reason why it is my favourite. As we stayed here, we took more time to explore this town than the others and we saw it in the early morning and late at night, when the crowds had vanished. But what also pleas in Riomaggiore’s favour is that it holds a wide variety of things to do.

Stretch your legs and go for a walk

Riomaggiore houses
House in Riomaggiore

Taking to Riomaggiore’s steep streets is the perfect way to start your holiday in Cinque Terre. When you walk through the alleyways full of staircases and past stunning vistas of the Ligurian Coast, you will immediately discover the magic of this place.

Visit the little church

Riomaggiore church
Riomaggiore from above

Make sure you stop at the Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista, Riomaggiore’s little church. It still has some of its original elements that date back to the 14th century. On the inside you will find a crucifix and a painting from the 15th century.

As the church is located in the higher part of Riomaggiore, you have a beautiful view over the lower parts of town while walking towards the building.

Go down to the marina and watch the sunset

Cinque Terre Riomaggiore sunset
Riomaggiore watching sunset

Riomaggiore’s marina is without a doubt the most famous view of the little village. When you come out of the tunnel towards the harbour, follow the path on your left hand side for a great view on the iconic houses.

This path is also the perfect place to watch a Ligurian sunset. Make sure you claim your spot in time (certainly if you travel during high season), as you won’t be alone here.

Take a dip at Fossola Beach

Riomaggiore Fossola Beach
Riomaggiore way to Fossola Beach

While Cinque Terre isn’t a suitable destination for those who want to tan on a beach at all times, the area sure counts some lovely swimming spots. One of the best can be found in Riomaggiore. If you continue to follow the path that goes up from the marina, you’ll find Fossola Beach right around the corner.

Many people just bathe in Riomaggiore’s marina itself, but this secluded, pebble stone beach appealed much more to me. It truly feels like a magical spot to take a dip.

Eat fritto misto in a cone

Tiles in Riomaggiore

The first thing we ate in Riomaggiore was fritto misto (fried seafood) in a cone. You won’t have trouble finding a place selling this local specialty (that also goes for the other villages of Cinque Terre). It’s the perfect snack to eat on the go!

Make sure to also order pasta pesto at least once during your stay in Cinque Terre. Liguria, the Italian region where the villages are situated, is home to this simple but oh so tasteful dish.

Manarola

Cinque Terre Manarola

Manarola is Cinque Terre’s Instagram star. As a consequence, it can get really busy on the way to the best viewpoints. However, you should still take your time to go there too. Manarola just looks as if it was made to be photographed.

Soak in all the views

Views on Manarola

Manarola is all about the views. Admire the multi-coloured houses and beautiful green vineyards from all possible angles as you walk along the waterfront. Just follow the path that goes up the hills, away from the town.

While walking, you’ll pass a corner from where you can see further along the Ligurian coast. From here you can see Corniglia sitting high on the cliffs above the Mediterranean Sea. If you look closely, you can even spot Monterosso in the distance.

When you continue upwards, you’ll end up at Manarola’s famous viewpoint, Punta Bonfiglio. This is the place to take the perfect holiday picture. If you arrive here around midday or in the afternoon, you can wine and dine at well-known Nessun Dorma, while enjoying the marvellous sight of Manarola some longer.

Indulge in gelato

Manarola Cinque Terre view
Street in Manarola

Italy and gelato go hand in hand. So, of course you should eat as much ice cream as you possibly can when in Cinque Terre. In Manarola you can find Gelateria 5Terre in the street that leads up to the waterfront. They produce vegan, gluten-free and lactose-free ice cream. What’s more is that they do so trying to be as waste free as possible. Both the ice cream cups and spoons are made of cookies. But be careful not to break your spoon before your gelato is done. I can tell from experience that this is not handy.

Corniglia

Cinque Terre Corniglia

It takes some effort to reach Corniglia, as it is the only town in Cinque Terre where the train does not arrive in the village itself. The reason is simple: Cinque Terre’s middle town is perched high upon the cliffs of the Ligurian Coast. If you want to reach Corniglia’s centre, you have two options. You can go up the Scalinata Lardarina (a beautiful Italian name for approximately 380 stairs), which apparently offers some wonderful views. Or you can take the shuttle bus that drops you off in the heart of town. I went with the latter, as one of my travel companions had a broken toe at the time.

Corniglia is quieter and less crowded than the other towns. Many tourists seem to – wrongly – skip it, as it takes more time to get there. However, Cinque Terre’s middle village is without a doubt the most authentic of the five villages. It’s the place where you get an impression of what Cinque Terre was like before the tourists started flooding the area. If you make the effort to go, you won’t be disappointed.

Discover the main street

Walking Corniglia
Alley Corniglia

The best way to dive into Corniglia’s unique ambiance is to just walk through Via Fieschi, its narrow but atmospheric main street full of small shops and little houses. The street will guide you all the way through the quintessential Italian town.

Enjoy the magnificent views

View on Cinque Terre from Corniglia
View on Cinque Terre from Corniglia

In Corniglia you don’t have the typical views of colourful houses stacked one upon another against the cliffsides. But that doesn’t mean Corniglia hasn’t got picturesque vistas. As this town is built so high upon the hills, this is the place to admire the Ligurian Coast in full glory.

When you follow Via Fieschi, you’ll eventually arrive on the terrace of Saint Mary. A stunning viewpoint from where you get a beautiful view on Cinque Terre’s rugged coastline and some of the other villages. A true feast for the eyes!

Sit back and relax in the central square

Corniglia central square

If you can’t get enough of Corniglia’s atmosphere (and you won’t, trust me) Largo Taragio is the place to enjoy it some more. The small but lively square hosts as many terraces as possibly can. Take a look at the Monument to the Fallen of 1926 while you work down your lunch or fifteenth gelato of the day. Afterwards go up to the Oratorio dei Disciplinati di Santa Catarina, the chapel that overlooks the bustling square.

Vernazza

Cinque Terre Vernazza

Chances are Vernazza looks familiar to you. That’s no surprise, as the view of this town is, together with Manarola’s, probably the most photographed and shared in the whole area. Because of its fame and good looks, Vernazza gets packed with tourists during the day, especially in high season.

However, you can’t blame them for all wanting to be there. Vernazza offers the typical views you’d expect from a Cinque Terre town, but with a little extra flavour. On top of the coloured houses, it has a castle towering above the village and a pretty church with a distinctive bell tower.

Get that picture

Vernazza from above

Now that you are here, you definitely want to take that famous picture of stunning Vernazza yourself. When you are walking down the main street that leads you to the harbour, you will see arrows pointing towards Monterosso al Mare. Follow them to get to the trail head that leads to Monterosso. The viewpoint that you need to reach, is located on the paying section of Cinque Terre’s hiking paths, so you’ll need a Cinque Terre card to get there.

When I was there the way from Vernazza to Monterosso was closed, but the guard let you pass if you wanted to take a picture. The viewpoint is only a little further than the trail entrance. Make sure to enjoy the views and the walk back through Vernazza’s lovely little alleyways.

Take your time at the seafront

Vernazza seafront
Vernazza square

Vernazza has a great seafront to chill for a while. Piazza Marconi, the central square, is the perfect place to rest your legs a little. If you fancy it, you can even take a swim here, as the square borders a tiny patch of sandy beach. I personally didn’t go in, as the water in both Monterosso and Riomaggiore appealed much more to me.

From Piazza Marconi, continue your discovery of Vernazza by walking its lovely boardwalk. From here you have a great view on the marina with its brightly painted boats and the spectacularly carved rocks sticking out of the water.

And that’s not all you can see from here! If you walk up to the end of the promenade and turn around, you’ll have a lovely view of Piazza Marconi and the green hills encircling the town. At the end of the walk you’ll find another square, where you can sit back and watch the waves crash in.

Go up to Doria Castle

Street in Vernazza

If your hunger for mesmerizing views still isn’t satisfied, you can go up Vernazza’s Castello. To get there, you need to climb some pretty steep streets and you have to pay € 1,50 to enter. I went up to Doria Castle, but didn’t go in as I had left everything, including my money, with my travel companion who didn’t join me there (oops!). Nevertheless, I’ve heard the views from the top are splendid.

Monterosso al Mare

Cinque Terre Monterosso

Monterosso al Mare definitely stands out between the other towns. It doesn’t look like a classic Cinque Terre village. As its name already gives away, Monterosso al Mare appears to be more of a typical touristy beach town.

Don’t judge a book by its cover though, as Monterosso is jam-packed with great things that are both fun to do and easy on the eye.

Roam the promenade …

Monterosso Beach

Monterosse al Mare is the place in Cinque Terre to leisurely stroll through. Because the town isn’t built high on the hillsides, the streets are relatively flat and the village is by far the most accessible of the five. If you have difficulties walking, Monterosso is your top pick.

This village consists of two parts: the old town and the new town. When you leave the train station, you’ll find yourself in the middle of the new town’s vivid promenade. Take it all in: the glinting sea, the seemingly endless lines of bright beach umbrellas, the people passing by and the lush hills that surround it all.

… and the old town

Monterosso old town
Monterosso churches

At the end of the new town’s promenade is a tunnel that will lead you to the old town. Here you’ll see the tall, coloured houses the area is so well-renowned for. There’s a laid-back square overlooked by a beautiful clock tower where you can people watch. The streets are filled with small shops, restaurants, cafes and of course magnificent houses. And if that’s not enough, Monterosso also has a couple of graceful churches in its centre.

Have a beach day

Monterosso beach

If there’s one thing you cannot miss in Monterosso, it’s the beach. Most beaches here are private, which means you have to rent a sunbed or chair to enter. Prices aren’t low, but if you only spend one day at the seaside here, it’s definitely worth it for some extra comfort.

Most people stick to the long stretch of sandy (and a little bit gravel) beach in the new town, but if you go through the tunnel towards the old town, you’ll find a smaller beach that has both a private part with equipment and a public part you can use for free.

We went to the private beach in the old town, as the sunbeds in the newer part were sold out. This smaller stretch of sand felt less crowded and it had a convenient beach bar with drinks and snacks. Not to mention the great view on Torre Aurora, that guards over the village.

Wherever you decide to put your towel down, the beaches in Monterosso are bound to keep you entertained for at least the day.

View on Monterosso old town

Got some time left?

Cinque Terre Riomaggiore from boat

If you still have some spare time at the Italian Riviera, you should check out Portovenere, a small, idyllic town in the Bay of Poets. Although not being a part of Cinque Terre itself, it got awarded UNESCO World Heritage status at the same time. The day trip we took here by boat was one of my highlights of our time in Cinque Terre.

Flying out of Pisa Airport? Then it’s a good idea to arrive in Pisa a day in advance. It will save you a lot of stress if the trains are running late on your day of departure and you can swoop in a quick visit to the Piazza dei Miracoli with the world famous Leaning Tower.

Hiking in Cinque Terre

Monterosso Cinque Terre sunset
View on Cinque Terre hiking path

The five Cinque Terre towns are located in the national park of the same name. There are plenty of walking trails in the stunning hills, of which the most popular is the Blue Path, that connects all the villages.

When we were in Cinque Terre (summer 2019) only one part of the Blue Path was open for hiking. All the other parts, including the easy and famous Via dell’Amore that connects Riomaggiore and Manarola, were closed. The status of which paths are accessible and which are not varies heavily. Its best to ask the tourist information point (there’s one in each town) for the latest updates before you venture out. Make sure to buy a Cinque Terre Card before you leave, as you need it to get access to the paths.

How to get to Cinque Terre

Houses in Vernazza Cinque Terre

You can fly into Pisa, Genua or Florence to get to Cinque Terre. From any of the three cities you can take the train to reach your final destination. From Belgium, we found it was the most convenient to fly into Pisa.

When you reach Pisa Airport, you can take the PisaMover – a metro-like automated train service – to the central station. In Pisa Centrale you have to take the train to La Spezia, the last town before Cinque Terre. Many people choose this town as a base for their trip. From La Spezia there are frequent trains that stop in every town in Cinque Terre.

Don’t forget to validate your train ticket from Pisa Centrale (or anywhere else) on the platform before you get on the train!

While many people choose to visit Cinque Terre on a day trip or stay in La Spezia or another town in close proximity, I can definitely recommend staying in one of the five towns themselves. Cinque Terre can get really crowded during the day, especially at the height of summer. If you stay in one of the towns, you can experience the area early in the morning or late at night, when it’s a lot quieter and the atmosphere is more relaxed. We stayed in Riomaggiore and absolutely loved it.

How to get around Cinque Terre?

Manarola square
Monterosso old town

The train is the easiest and quickest way to get around Cinque Terre. The Cinque Terre Express is frequent and stops in every town of the area, plus La Spezia and Levanto. You can buy one-way or return tickets between all the villages or you can buy a Cinque Terre card that gives you unlimited access for one or more days to both the trains and trails of the national park.

If you want a more scenic way to travel around Cinque Terre, you can move between the villages by boat. Boats are less frequent, but it offers views of the towns you can only admire from the water. You can choose a one-way or return ticket between two villages or you can opt for tickets that include stops in between towns.

If the trails are open, you can of course also walk from town to town.

Whatever you choose for you means of transport: forget about driving a car in Cinque Terre. There are virtually no cars here and it will take you more time to reach every village by car than if you just take the train.