Despite not being a part of it, Portovenere is often called the sixth town of Cinque Terre. Portovenere received Unesco World Heritage status together with its five more famous sisters. Rightfully so: the village is just as charming as the ones in Cinque Terre, yet its atmosphere and appearance have something distinctly different. Add to that that Portovenere is only a boat ride away from Cinque Terre and you know you have found the perfect day trip for your Ligurian vacation.
The boat ride
Visiting Portovenere on a day trip from Cinque Terre is easiest by boat. You can get on board in all the Cinque Terre villages, except for Corniglia. We departed from Riomaggiore, the Cinque Terre town closest to Portovenere. The boat ride takes about half an hour. A return ticket from any of the Cinque Terre towns to Portovenere costs 35 euros.
The boat ride is already an attraction in itself, as the views on the rugged Ligurian coastline are magnificent. After a while, you’ll see Portovenere’s San Pietro church, that sits on a rock that juts out in the sea, and Doria Castle, that’s perched on a hill high above town. After the boat takes a turn, you’ll have a lovely view on the colourful houses that line the waterfront.
The palazzata and boardwalk
Portovenere’s waterfront is lined with skinny, colourful houses called Palazzata. Stroll along this bright boardwalk and enjoy the views on the aptly named Bay of Poets. On your way you’ll find plenty of places to satisfy your hunger or thirst … or just your craving for gelato.
San Pietro Church
If you walk up till the end of Portovenere’s boardwalk, you end up at San Pietro Church. This is the one you could see from the boat, standing on a rock amidst the waves. As a result, the roof and balcony of the church offer great sea views. But don’t forget to take a look inside, too!
Grotta di Byron
Right next to San Pietro Church you’ll find an opening in the walls along the cliff. Here you can enter the Grotta di Byron, named after the famous poet and frequent Portovenere visitor Lord Byron. Although most of the cave collapsed, the views on the bay and rocky coastline are still wonderful.
Doria Castle
Towering high above town and adding to Portovenere’s distinct look, is Doria Castle, with the San Lorenzo Church in close proximity. If you’re up for it, you can climb all the way up to this fortification for some extra wonderful views of the town and its surrounding Bay. As it was really hot when we visited, we decided to just admire the Castle from lower ground.
Portovenere’s main street Via Capellini
Instead of walking the boardwalk, you can also opt for a stroll through Portovenere’s lively main street, Via Capellini. Full of authentic shops with local products and colourful houses with drying laundry, this street is quintessential Italian.
Porta del Borgo and Torre Capitolare
At the end (or beginning) of the main street that is closest to the harbour, you’ll find Porta del Borgo and Torre Capitolare. They used to be the city gate in the Middle Ages. You can see the tower when you walk into Portovenere from the harbour. The little square in front of them is really cosy.
Take a swim
At the start of Portovenere’s boardwalk is a small patch of sand, but most swimmers take a dip along the rocks further down the waterfront. At Byron’s Grotta, too, you’ll find people in the water. If you want to take a plunge, it’s worth to take your bathing suit along on a day trip to Portovenere.
Around Portovenere
As I already mentioned, Portovenere is the perfect day trip from Cinque Terre. It was one of my favourite parts of our vacation here. Many people choose to simply visit Cinque Terre on a day trip, but the villages actually merit an overnight stay. Check my guide to Cinque Terre to discover what the towns have to offer.
If you came to the Italian Riviera by plane, chances are you flew into Pisa. If you can, spend a day in this city before departing. You won’t have to worry about making it to the airport in time and you can visit the splendid Piazza dei Miracoli.
